Applying a voltage to the S pin to confirm it triggers. I guess you can check operation by measuring the voltage on the S pin. I am inadequate here as I am not clear on the workings of the pullups etc. (So we could assume its normally at 0V) However if the S pin is pulled up to 5V then the 12V from the sensor will not cause the RAMPS to switch but may allow enough current for the LED to trigger. It does without the diode and allows sufficient current for the LED to illuminate. So you need the RAMPS to recognise the end stop active when there is 12V on the Signal.
This is NPN so when activated it will switch the sensor wire to the same voltage as the input (12V in this case). This sensor its Normaly Open so there is no connection on the sensor wire until it switches. The Black signal goes to the S pin on the RAMPS sensor pins (I assume this is right but I don't know RAMPS). The - pin on the RAMPS sensor pins seems OK. The circuit in the sensor requires a permanent power circuit so Brown is connected to a + source (seems OK here). I have no experience of ramps but hope I can clarify some of the issues. Sorry again for my english, I trying to do the best I can.Įdited 1 time(s). I tried with the pullups active and then I tried to disable the endstop pullups, but nothing to do, with the diode, the sensor doesn't works, without the diode, the sensor works (the LED turns on when it's near aluminium or metals) but the z axis doesn't stop when the LED turns on. The wiring is as in the diagram above, brown wire to power supply, black and blue wires to the z_min pins. I tried with aluminium foil and metal and it detects both, it doesn't works only if I connect the diode to the black wire. If I disconnect the diode the sensor works, the LED turns on when it's near a aluminium foil, but the voltage of signal wire is about 12v. Thanks for the answer, yes, I talk about the LED of the sensor.
Last edit at 08:00PM by dont_go_away.Īre you talking about the LED on the sensor itself? What happens if you disconnect the diode altogether? Have you tried sensing something more solid, like a metal washer? Are you sure that the black wire is connected to signal, and the blue one connected to ground? Is 12V on the brown wire? Have you tried disabling the endstop pullups in the software? I attach my configuration.h ( Configuration.h ) hoping someone help me to resolve this problem and sorry again for my english.Įdited 1 time(s). Leave commented only this line: //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMINīut nothing to do, the problem still exist. Then, since the problem wasn't solved, i tried to uncommented these lines: I use the Marlin RC7 firmware and I have made that changes for the autobed leveling: I try to search in the posts on this forum the answer for my question but I could not find it.
I think that is a firmware problem, but I haven't idea what's the cause. If I don't stop with the "STOP button" on Repetier-host, the extruder continues to go down untill touch and break the glass over the heated bed. My problem is: when I type G29 the X and Y axis go to home perfectly, instead the Z axis goes down without stopping when the led turns on. Thus: using the 3M mount, the camera falls from the windshield when you brake.Brown wire to power supply and blue and black wires to the ZMIN on the ramps 1.4 and the sensor works, because if I pass below the sensor, an alluminium foil, the sensor turns on. I tried 4 SDHC cards, Sony/Lexar/Kingston/Sandisk, all 32GB.ģ) The 3M mount that comes with the camera does not have the stopper on it (that prevents the camera from slipping from the mount), like the suction mount has. I can't figure out why some are corrupted and some not.
IPASS BLACK POWER VOLTAGE SOFTWARE
Some files can't be open in any software (AVS video editor, Adobe Premiere pro, Sony Vegas and many other usual players), except VLC, where it plays, but with some issues (sound and video shifts etc). To give you a small bit by bit experience:ġ) Poorer video quality, compared with the WF-1.Ģ) No emergency record button (it's quite helpful for me, to save traffic incidents, and not review hours and hours of footage again).ġ) Camera shuts down in moderate heat (32-33C ?) We sometimes have 38-40C here.Ģ) I get some corrupted files (codec). Jeremy, definitely go with the iTronics, instead of the WF-1.
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